Specialty Paint Brush
A good brush makes the whole job easier.
You can paint with anything. But a brush built for the job holds more paint, gets into the corners, and leaves a finish you're happy with. These were made for painting furniture, with a densely packed head and a handle short enough to work in tight spots without knocking into everything.
Three sizes, two bristle types, or all three sizes together.
Which Size Do I Need?
The rule of thumb is simple: the bigger the project, the bigger the brush. But even on a large piece, a small brush earns its place.
Small for details and tight areas. Corners, grooves, spindles, carved trim, drawer edges. 8" long, oval head 1 5/8" x 1 3/8"
Medium for most furniture projects. If you're only buying one, buy this one. 8" long, oval head 2" x 1 3/4"
Large for broad, flat surfaces. Tabletops, dresser sides, cabinet doors, floors. 8 1/2" long, oval head 2 1/4" x 1 3/4"
Set of 3 for anyone who'd rather have the right brush already in hand. Small, medium, and large together, at a better price than buying them separately.
Not sure? Start with medium. It handles most pieces, and it's the size that comes in our Starter Kit.
Natural or Synthetic?
Both work beautifully. It comes down to the finish you're after.
Synthetic is soft, durable, and won't fray. It holds its shape in water-based paint and tends to have less breakage over time. If you'd rather not see brush strokes, or this is your first project, start here.
Natural holds more paint and leaves the gentle brushstroke movement that gives furniture a hand-painted look. A favorite for anyone chasing character over uniformity.
Still deciding? Synthetic for a clean finish, natural for a vintage one.
What Makes These Different
Chisel-tipped bristles work with the self-leveling properties of mineral paint, so brush strokes soften as the paint dries.
A densely packed oval head holds more paint and keeps it from wicking up into the bristles. More paint on your piece, fewer trips back to the jar.
An extra-wide ferrule keeps the bristles stable, which matters most in grooves and detailed areas where a floppy brush flips paint around. It also means the brush lasts longer.
A short beaver-tail handle is comfortable to hold and stays out of your way when you're working in tight spaces.
Caring for Your Brushes
Before your first use. Wet the bristles, swirl them in Brush Conditioning Soap, and rinse, pulling the lather through until the water runs clear. Tap the bristles against the edge of the sink to release any loose ones. This is what keeps stray bristles out of your finish.
Some minor shedding is normal, especially at first. If a bristle lands in your paint, let the paint dry, then rub it with your finger or a scrap of 400-grit sandpaper. It usually lifts right off.
While you're painting. Keep a jar of water nearby for breaks, but don't let the water rise above the bristles. Never stand a brush upside down in water or leave it submerged. Water sitting against the ferrule breaks down the adhesive holding the bristles in, and that's what turns minor shedding into a real problem.
Never let a brush dry with paint in it.
After every use. Most cleaners, including everyday dish soap, strip a brush and leave it dry and brittle. That's usually why brushes don't last. Brush Conditioning Soap cleans and conditions at the same time. Wash, reshape the head, and let it dry. Do that and these will last you years.
Shop Brush Conditioning Soap →
About Wax
These brushes work for paint or wax, but once a brush is used for one, keep it for that job. Wax stays in the bristles, and a waxy brush won't give you good results with paint.
Wax brushes are built differently anyway. The head is flat and round rather than tapered, which is what lets you work wax in with a circular motion.
Pick your size. Pick your bristle. Go paint something.
